E! illustration/Remedy Skin
"Hyperpigmentation is when you get an increase of melanin pigment in a portion of the skin, and then that can look to the eye like a dark mark," Dr. Shah told us. This discoloration can look different, either a melasma (larger "blob" of pigmentation), freckles, sun spots, or acne scars.
Dr. Shah explained that it's produced by melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells on the lower level of our skin, through an enzyme called tyrosinase. The difference in hyperpigmentation is based on what triggered the melanocytes. Sun exposure, hormones (especially during pregnancy), and inflammation caused by acne are all triggers that can cause hyperpigmentation.
There's no one solution to treat all forms of hyperpigmentation. "There is a little bit of a deeper nuance to it," Dr. Shah said. "Pigmentation can deposit at different levels." For example, hyperpigmentation from acne is usually superficial and responds better to topical treatments.
Melasma, on the other hand, depends on its form—some can be treated with topical treatments, while others are deeper in the skin and should be treated with lasers or chemical peels. "But it's hard to know without seeing somebody," he said. "I'm still going to try somebody on a topical treatment first to see how they respond because I don't know how deep their pigment is."
Dr. Shah suggests treating the cause of hyperpigmentation first and foremost. "I would always say to treat your acne first, because otherwise, treating the dark mark that comes after acne is you're going to be a futile effort." Same thing with pigment caused by sun exposure, wear your SPF first and foremost. Then address the hyperpigmentation.
There are plenty of ingredients that promise to brighten and clear up hyperpigmentation, but only a few of them are worth your time and money. "You really should focus on ingredients that target all three steps of the pathway," Dr. Shah said. "The melanin [or pigment] goes from the melanocyte [through the tyrosinase enzyme] to a melanosome, which is like a little vesicle [or transport], and then it transfers it to the skin cells." The thing is, lots of ingredients just focus on inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme step, which won't remove existing hyperpigmentation.
Which ingredients target all three steps? "Choose a cocktail of ingredients that targets multiple steps in the pigment pathway. And so, that would be vitamin C, retinol, niacinamide, kojic acid, alpha-arbutin, and azelaic acid," Dr. Shah said. If there's a single ingredient that treats it all on its own, it's retinol—and no alternative retinols, either, just pure retinoid.
Curated by Antonio Rossi
